Converting a DC layout to DCC

[delticcity]

I am about to make a return to railway modelling by buying a part completed medium-sized layout. The track is all laid, weathered, and ballasted, and the DC wiring is all in place with electric point motors aswell.
But.......I want to convert immediately to DCC and am a little apprehensive about the conversion. I am ok with installing a power bus under the layout but how easy is it going to be to install droppers to all the track pieces with the track already well and trully fixed down and ballasted? Has anybody got any tips on such a conversion please? Presumably I would have to drill holes through the baseboard very close to the track and solder my droppers to the underside of the rails? Doesn't sound like much fun. The baseboards have removable legs so at least I will be able to tip them up on their sides to avoid working underneath.
One thought I had was that it might be easier to rip up the track and start again from scratch but I think I hate the thought of all that re-ballasting and weathering even more than the thought of all the fiddly re-wiring. Any thoughts or tips would be greatly appreciated. Dave.

[leviathan1949]

If this layout is PART built, then presumably there are already a number of wires (droppers) in place. The question is - Do you need anymore?
The answer to that question revolves around whether the wires already in place are adequate to feed every piece of track ALL THE TIME.
If the answer is yes - Then simply connect the existing wires to your new bus. If the answer is no - Then you will need to identify where some additional droppers are needed and then fit them. 1.5Amp cable is more than adeaute for this task. Drill a small hole 1.5mm is usually big enough, drop the wire through the hole and carefully solder to the side of the rail. Connect to the bus underneath. When they are all in place, carefully paint over the new wires with a colour that matches the rest of the ballasting.

To check that power reaches all rails at all times, power the track via the bus underneath and test that power is everywhere with a meter, bulb or loco.

The only thing to watch for is reverse loops - you will need to identify these and then make or purchase DCC Reverse loop modules.

[delticcity]

Thanks for your reply Pete. To be honest I don't know how many feeds are in place having only ever seen the layout once, in a very cramped and dark loft. I think the layout was built to a high standard but is now quite a few years old. It uses Peco code 100 trackwork which I wouldn't be too disappointed to replace if I had to, but I was hoping to keep the initial expense down as I also need a DCC controller and a few DCC sound-fitted locos. I will post again once I've got the layout home and set up. I wonder how many other lapsed modellers have been drawn back to modelling by the lure of DCC Sound. It adds that extra dimension that seems to bring so much to the experience. I was listening to a Class 37 on a layout at the York show and its flanges squealed over the pointwork. Everybody there, even dyed-in-the-wool steam fans were gobsmacked. I think it was a SWD chip. Dave.

[LNERandBR]

If the layout is wired for cab control then all you need to do is connect the DCC controler in place of the DC one and turn on all the sections. No more wireing required as long as every part of the layout has power all of the time.

[delticcity]

I've got the layout home and set up now. There are 19 switched feeds around the layout but the wires are of very small gauge, the same as the inner wires of a telephone line. Presumably these would not be suitable for the higher voltage and current used with DCC ?
I've bought all the tools I will need to replace the feeds anyway, I just need to start practicing my soldering now. Dave.

[leviathan1949]

If they look like telephone wire they probably weren't appropriate for use on DC. Volt drop would have been the most likely symptom with slower than expected running being the visual stimulus. However, the previous owner may never have spotted any problem.
You are right to upgrade the wiring if only for safety reasons.