Hi again. Work on my new layout is proceeding slowly, but with an eye to the future, i'm thinking about signalling. I THINK i know where everything should go, to give an authentic look, but i'm not sure.
Does anyone know of anyone who would be able to show where the signals, ground signals, etc etc be placed on a particular layout as per the prototype? It would be great if someone out there in webland knew where to place signals correctly!
James
Authentic signalling
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danielw2599
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It just so happens....... 
This is the plan of my layout in what (i hope) will be its final form. If anyone does have knowledge of prototype signalling and would be kind enough to assist, my email address can be provided by request. Time period is 1989 onwards, location is Northwest england (so colour lights or upper quadrant semaphores, or both!).
Many thanks, James
http://jamesbradley890.picturebook.org. ... 07308.html
This is the plan of my layout in what (i hope) will be its final form. If anyone does have knowledge of prototype signalling and would be kind enough to assist, my email address can be provided by request. Time period is 1989 onwards, location is Northwest england (so colour lights or upper quadrant semaphores, or both!).
Many thanks, James
http://jamesbradley890.picturebook.org. ... 07308.html
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leviathan1949
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Hi, if it does look like an existing plan, then its purely accidental! My layout planning owes more to putting track down, then spending hours moving it around until i get a result i like, than to reading plans books! This is about the fifth incarnation since i bought the baseboards!
It was going to be a tail chaser, but it is now a long, elongated 'S' shape, with hidden sidings/fiddle yard at either end. The reasons for not making it a tail chaser are many and varied, but its what i'm sticking with (for now).
See my other post, 'New layout....work in progress' for pictures.
James
PS, do you have a picture of the 'Nelson' plan? It would be interesting to compare that with mine.
It was going to be a tail chaser, but it is now a long, elongated 'S' shape, with hidden sidings/fiddle yard at either end. The reasons for not making it a tail chaser are many and varied, but its what i'm sticking with (for now).
See my other post, 'New layout....work in progress' for pictures.
James
PS, do you have a picture of the 'Nelson' plan? It would be interesting to compare that with mine.
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trains2
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On the basis that you want to use colour light signals, as it is set from the 90s onwards, I gave it a go and came up with this:
Now depending on how much traffic you intend to have, you can either have 3 aspect or 2 aspect signals with a mix of 3asp (2asp if its relatively quiet). I would go for 3asp as they are more interesting.
The ground signals are placed to how I think you would have them in real life, however modelling them will be difficult - I know only of 2 makes - Roger Murray (expensive - £20ish a go) or Eckon, which is kit form, and building 6 of them is going to be a pain! So you may wish to omit the ground signals.
The feathers shouldn't be too much of a problem - again Eckon make a kit but it is very easy to put together and looks the part.
Perhaps the most problematic signal is the white call-on signal placed on the Loop Home signal. This allows you access into the 'yard area' (top most sidings) and also allows call-on into a platform already occupied. The problem is is that no-one models it except Roger Murray, and again that is expensive and you have to buy the signal as a whole (i.e 3asp + feather + call-on).
I don't know what your price range is, but Roger Murray's are excellent. Our club has just bought a large amount and I am currently installing them on gantries and such like, but they are not cheap, especially if you are buying quite a lot.
Eckon or Berko is probably your best bet for cheap signals, and they still look the part. Berko are ready made, and come at about £8 for a 3-asp signal; and Eckon as already mentioned are kits, at a similar price.
You need to decide how realistic you want your layout to be, and thus how realistic you want the signals. The above diagrams show an ideal signalling situation, but with some complicated features. It may be that you just want the actual signals, i.e. no feathers, ground signals etc which is fine, the same plan can still apply.
Hope that helps you, just ask again if you want any more info.
Rich
Now depending on how much traffic you intend to have, you can either have 3 aspect or 2 aspect signals with a mix of 3asp (2asp if its relatively quiet). I would go for 3asp as they are more interesting.
The ground signals are placed to how I think you would have them in real life, however modelling them will be difficult - I know only of 2 makes - Roger Murray (expensive - £20ish a go) or Eckon, which is kit form, and building 6 of them is going to be a pain! So you may wish to omit the ground signals.
The feathers shouldn't be too much of a problem - again Eckon make a kit but it is very easy to put together and looks the part.
Perhaps the most problematic signal is the white call-on signal placed on the Loop Home signal. This allows you access into the 'yard area' (top most sidings) and also allows call-on into a platform already occupied. The problem is is that no-one models it except Roger Murray, and again that is expensive and you have to buy the signal as a whole (i.e 3asp + feather + call-on).
I don't know what your price range is, but Roger Murray's are excellent. Our club has just bought a large amount and I am currently installing them on gantries and such like, but they are not cheap, especially if you are buying quite a lot.
Eckon or Berko is probably your best bet for cheap signals, and they still look the part. Berko are ready made, and come at about £8 for a 3-asp signal; and Eckon as already mentioned are kits, at a similar price.
You need to decide how realistic you want your layout to be, and thus how realistic you want the signals. The above diagrams show an ideal signalling situation, but with some complicated features. It may be that you just want the actual signals, i.e. no feathers, ground signals etc which is fine, the same plan can still apply.
Hope that helps you, just ask again if you want any more info.
Rich
Rich, a thousand thank yous! Excellent work there. The ground signals were the ones giving me a slight headache, as i didnt have a clue where they should go. Thanks very much indeed for your time on the plan.
I decided to go for a more realistic track plan, purely because i want realistic operation. Difficult shunt moves across the main lines etc!
Thanks again, James
I decided to go for a more realistic track plan, purely because i want realistic operation. Difficult shunt moves across the main lines etc!
Thanks again, James
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leviathan1949
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