Looking forward to having a go at it.220389 wrote:
... Also finial testing & changing typos on an activity for the ESR which has a bit of shunting and passenger work on it
Chris
Regards
Manuel
Moderator: Moderators
Looking forward to having a go at it.220389 wrote:
... Also finial testing & changing typos on an activity for the ESR which has a bit of shunting and passenger work on it
Chris
Darpor wrote:I am now surprised nobody has now commented on it since you brought it to attention by commenting on it!hertsbob wrote: In fact I'm surprised nobody has commented on it already.
Cheers
Bob
I could comment all day about the lack of comments, but I won't comment on why I made my initial comment.

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All of this is good advice, bar the blower. The blower is used to create the draft you get when moving and you have exhaust creating draft through blastpipes, so while using the blower while steaming does pretty much nothing. I am a volunteer engine cleaner (Light up fireman in trainingstuart666 wrote:Ive yet to get the finished version, but you really have to bin the autofireman to get maximum output.
Here is what I do to get maximum steam output. Open the dampers fully, then throw coal on the fire like its going out of fashion. Open the blower when getting near to the gradient. That will get it nice and hot, throwing the coal on tends to lower temperture I think, and this makes it burn nice.
Makes sure you have a full load of water in the boiler. Dont mind if you go over 100 percent slightly, they are designed for this. Use exhaust steam, that will mean you are not wasting steam firing the water in the boiler. Use live steam if you are already boiling over. Using either/or will allow you to keep it very near the boil, I think you can hover it to just about 200/205 without the safety popping.
When you get to the gradient, shove the blower down to about 5 percent, and if you have a decent load of coal in the firebox, stop shovelling and shut the door. The damper should keep it hot, and the lowering the blower will not consume as much steam. Then set the reverser to the highest position you can without stalling, then slowly feed in the power using the regulator. Try to use as little as possible to maintain your speed, but not waste excessive steam. For short distances you can overtax the boiler and get away with it, but ensure you have a nice flat bit (or preferably a drop) to build the steam up again.
Thats how I used to do it on the port road, and it gave a good output that allowed a decent output from the locomotive. Im sure there are much better ways, but it worked for me anyway. Ive yet to try it on the S and D, ill get back to when I do with any pointers.
Well I agree with you, but judging by the difficulty everyone has coming to terms with the cylinder cocks I think good drivers might be in a minority.Mazza35 wrote:Nah, if you're a good driver and know the route, you should be able to set your controls with no need for major adjustments, then pick up the shovel