Class 86 Problem

[longbow]

As posted elsewhere, simple controls for the 86 will become available when the new HUD is released.

[styckx]

For davids 86 in rail sim but the two drive nearly identical. Just ignore the panto raising as it is already done for you in the Railworks 86

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E8ghYaDDHT0&sns=em

[Shadders]

Hello,

The 86 has caused a few hiccups for me too, but stick with it. Its worth it.
I hope this helps:

After applying full forward reverser, move the throttle to the Hold position with a ~1/2 second press of the A key.
Make sure the breaks are off and then tap the A key, if you look at the throttle handle while doing it, it should just move a little and then move back to the hold position.
Keep tapping until you start moving. I found a couple of taps, then wait a couple of seconds to gauge the affect, a couple more taps, etc.

This is possibly not the best way to drive an 86, but it's my first one

Press A for too long and the throttle will move all the way and you'll be applying full throttle, this will cause the ammeter to red line and you will trip an overload.
In that event I think you have to return the throttle handle to the off position (hold D) and then press F, the light to the right of the ammeter gauges should go out and you should be OK to start again.

Hope this helps, if others with more experience want to chime in and correct any mistakes or omissions, please feel free.

Personally, I'm happy that I have a loco that offers a bit more of a challenge to drive, without the complexity of steam (I can get them going, just not very fast).

Best regards,

Shad.

[AndyUK]

Useful video but note that the loco shown uses the MSTS key convention not the RW one, so when the video mentions the 'D' key use 'A' in RW and vice versa. It also doesn't mention the notch up and notch down positions but then goes on to describe their use. Avoid using the run-up postion until you've built up some speed otherwise unless you're very quick the ammeters will be in the red and the overload trip will activate.

Andy L

[clivejames1st]

Hi.

If it is of any help I have found the best way to drive the 86 is to use the mouse with the tap changer. I have set the mouse to clicklock (via control panel) by holding down the left mouse button. After a second or two this in effect becomes the tap changer and enables me to fine tune the tap changer as need be. One problem I did discover is the mouse is wire connected and the wire can alter the position of the mouse (due to clutter strewn across my desktop) so I now use an additional wireless mouse which is much heavier due to the contained batteries, I can run both with no problems, I just pick up either.

Regards

Clive

[drwatson2010]

Very usefull video, everything is clear now, it's great fun to drive, nice sounds effects too and a nice horn. Will be driving this a lot as it's much more involving than some other loco's.

[Kromaatikse]

I've found that the ammeters will jump into the middle of the yellow with one notch up from a standing start. Therefore, always use only one notch to start. The ammeters should never go into the red zone - if they do, move straight back to "off" and try again more carefully.

If you're running light engine, that first notch will cause very rapid acceleration, levelling off at around 25mph. If you're in a yard area with a low speed limit, you will need to be ready to cut the power very quickly. The loco will run a long way with power shut off and brakes not applied.

Once you are moving, the ammeters will drop off as the motors produce "back EMF". A good beginner's technique is to notch up one at a time once the needles hit the green zone, and this will normally put them back up into the yellow. Use the yellow zone for accelerating and the green zone for cruising. As a beginner, avoid using the "run up" position as it's easy to let it get away from you.

Reducing power will take some time unless you go all the way to the "off" position. For that reason, start to reduce notches well before you reach the speed limit. If you reach the speed limit before you've found a balanced setting, go straight to "off" and check whether you need to use the brakes. You'll need to wait until the tap-changer has run all the way down before you can re-apply power.

This type of "tap changer" system is common to all of the "classic" AC electrics, up to and including the Class 87 (except the unique prototype 87100). The unique 89 and the 9x series use thyristor control and therefore operate more similarly to the German electrics in RailWorks.

[Esurient]

I've got a throttle problem on the C86. I can get it moving but sometimes the throttle doesn't work. I thought I may have caused a fault, So i did what it says in the manual about resetting it... However, afterwards, the throttle still doesn't hardly pick up. Can get it to about 20max :S

Any news or help would be greatful

Do you mean that the throttle output is not linked to how far you open the tap-charger? If so, that is intended here. Instead of opening the throttle to 100% you open it slowly (tapping) and every new tap is like shifting gear in your car. Just go slowly and you'll see the loco pick up speed. If you go too fast you will get an overload and a shut down.

(I hope I understood your question)

So, when i'm at, say, 95mph. Is it normal for the throttle to stay at a max of about 18%? I Can never seem to get the throttle to go above or get to 100% and the train decreases in speed up hill, then the throttle will increase slightly to about 21% or so.

[bigphill2]

Hi all
Very happy with the 86,very similar to original as far as operation goes, but the brake pressure gauge rises to the applied pressure then falls of to zero. The brakes hold but seeing the gauge drop makes you think otherwise and its hard to add more brake with no indication. Hopefully a fix will appear.
Phill

[larch]

I'm sorry, but I'm finding the 86 very difficult to drive. I've followed guidance and advice to the letter, and yet I still can't get the thing to drive properly. What I need is an idiot's guide to driving it. Having spent £20 on the route and now not being able to drive it, despite being a ***very*** experienced RW user (just look at my career scores: 'spoerer') I'm beginning to feel very frustrated. I can get the thing started (but normally trip), but then just end up coasting and not being able to apply current. This is silly. Idiot guide please.

[larch]

OK - Now I'm getting a handle on this beastie! Don't forget the reset button. The tap handle is something you need carefully to 'handle'. The tap handle is the key to this thing. Keep moving it up and down - this is not a regulator or diesel throttle, and its a long way from a modern combined brake and throttle. It's a bit like a vacuum brake - work it. Feel it. Handle it.

But I wish they'd released better help about it!!!!

Spoerers

[phat2003uk]

I'm such a philistine when it comes to this loco. I'd rather just use my raildriver to drive it without all the tapping .

[FoggyMorning]

Once I'd got the hang of the increase/decrease power buttons being reversed compared to Dave's version it's very similar to drive. Maybe it helps that I spent several frustrating hours attempting to get the freeware version to drive properly recently

My only issue with it is that I lose the horn sound after a while. I don't think it's a memory related issue because all the other sounds are fine, including the AWS alerts which are normally an indicator that my PC is struggling

[BenBlairL]

This may be stupid but. . . what key in the Reset button mapped to?

[varontal]

86 makes you work!

up until now you didn't even had to look at the gauges to drive the trains.
more simulator and less arcade.

great job guys.