Where to start? Tutorial?

[hertsbob]

Hi

You could give RWDecal a whirl.

Cheers

Bob

[callum1122334455]

I got a bit confused with the lower left and upper right settings on RWdecal. We shall see how my first decal goes when It has finished processing it.

[callum1122334455]

Iv'e kinda got the grasp of RWdecal but I don't' know how to delete placemarks.

http://i1135.photobucket.com/albums/m62 ... tled-1.jpg

I want to delete the 'Gath_Fields4' placemarks but don't know how. Anyone?

[haddock1000]

I believe that there is an option to do so on RWDecal itself.

John.

[callum1122334455]

I have almost finished placing my decals onto the whole of my planned route and I'm wondering if the next best step is to actually lay the track?

Thanks for all the help so far too.

[nobkins]

I would think so.

One of the most important things with getting track right is to have a gradient profile if at all possible and make sure the first piece of track is at the right height. I always pick a known "ground" location. So using googlearth or a streetview find a level crossing or something where you know the track is at ground level for a reasonable stretch (a couple of 100m) then you can start laying your track from this point and with luck you have the right height for the first piece of track.

Get it wrong and you may find you are having to make cuttings when you shouldn't be or embankments etc.

Jim

[Acorncomputer]

People have different ways of building routes, but I think all would agree that it is best to get all the track in and working first.

I then progress down the line detailing about a mile at a time except for the very close to line detail which I do in the closing stages. Finally I do the signalling.

I have noticed many different variations on this so it is really a matter of what suits you best.

[antonyperks]

my own way is track work, then signals followed by and extensive pl.....testing sesion then the scenics, but each to his own.

[callum1122334455]

I would think so.

One of the most important things with getting track right is to have a gradient profile if at all possible and make sure the first piece of track is at the right height. I always pick a known "ground" location. So using googlearth or a streetview find a level crossing or something where you know the track is at ground level for a reasonable stretch (a couple of 100m) then you can start laying your track from this point and with luck you have the right height for the first piece of track.

Get it wrong and you may find you are having to make cuttings when you shouldn't be or embankments etc.

Jim

So it doesn't matter if I don't start laying track at the beginning of my route? There are lots of level crossings and flat points in the route but the start is on a hill.

Also, should I use the 'mainline' track type as standard? and is it best to use bi-directional lines on all lines?

[Acorncomputer]

Hi

To get the trackwork directions right you need to understand a bit about the dispatcher works. When the route is finished the dispatcher will work out the best route for A1 traffic based on the track properties so, for example, a freight train will not be allowed to run on a main line. You will have a diagram of your route and a little time spent imagining the way that traffic will travel along your route should help with the properties that you allocate to the track.

With regard to the specific question about bi-directional track, generally it is a good idea to leave all track bi-directional otherwise the dispatcher might be stumped trying to work out the best path down one way tracks.

I would add that you need to keep your first route quite compact so that can experiment with the various different skills of route building without the necessity of making extensive and time consuming changes if you get something wrong.

[callum1122334455]

Well the route will be passenger only so I suppose that makes things a bit easier. As for keeping things compact, the route is probably about 20 miles long. Maybe too ambitious?

I'm also wondering which type of track to use. Do you think the WCML track would be a good idea?

[Acorncomputer]

Hi

I'm also wondering which type of track to use. Do you think the WCML track would be a good idea?

Another problem How much payware do you include in your route

Again for a first route (20 miles is OK, 10 might be better for first time) it might be best to stick to default assets or default and UKTS Freeware Pack assets if you intend to share your route. It is a major task at the completion of a route to work out just which assets you have used and where they came from. RW Tools is a great help with this and will indicate which are default assets but you will have to identify every other non-default asset you have used and list out the links as to where those assets can be found. If there are many payware assets then people without that payware may not be able to run your route.

At best, perhaps just use the Isle of Wight payware route that has lots of useful assets with it and some 3D track, otherwise I suggest you stick to one of the default tracks that come with TS2012.

[callum1122334455]

Yeh, I'll use the Oxford track, it should look fine.
Well, I have backed up my track-less route with RWdecal just in case I mess it up majorly. I will just have a play and see how it comes out.

[Acorncomputer]

Hi

As well as backing up the route and program, you can occasionally make a clone of your route so as a further back up. A clone is a good way to test something you want to try so .. create clone, try out what you want to do, such as add track or add gradients, if it all works OK in the clone then go back and do it in your master route.

[callum1122334455]

Ah, good idea. Just done this too.
All of a sudden this all feels very daunting
Can the speed limits be changed at a later date?