differing heights

[antonyperks]

Hello again yet another problem sort of, Now that I have all My series and named markers showing and all the DEM working i have started to lay track but i have a small problem my route starts on level track at the mainline junction then falls at 1 in176 for about 2 miles , so how do you start a gradient to go down hill, I could start at the bottom of the grade and work back but then track is a real pain to join at each point. Some will say start the other end of the route, But...the end of the line finishes on a 1064:1 gradient as well so i have the same problem?

Any Ideas?, also do i lay direct to the DEM hills etc i have tried this but the gradients dont work out right eg a 1in 176 come out about 1 in 256?, then I tried not snap to terrain and the line goes through hills so i tried the magnet jobbie and i get cuttings and embankements where they should not be!, at this rate i may just go back to playing and not Laying.............

[nobkins]

Set the gradient of the track and the lay from your existing track. Then use the magnet tool to create the cuttings/embankments etc. Some terrain adjustment from the DEM data is sometimes needed but if you have the gradients etc right it shoudl match up with real life well.

When track goes under terain (efore you use the magnet tool) then I find lay the track using your best guess. THen use the magnet tool to lower the terrain. As soon as you realise the track is going off course delete the piece of track and then relay it. You now have the advantage on the 2nd relay of being able to see where the track is up to the point of where you used the magnet tool.

If possible I recommend RWDecal for laying track accurately (I would though as I am the author). This is a more accurate and easier method than using series markers etc. (http://www.rwdecal.co.uk).

[OrpheusRocker]

Try a 'minus' before your gradient number in the gradient entry box for achieving negative gradients.

[antonyperks]

Thanks nobkins i am using your decal tool and great it is too, a strange thing happens when i use the magnet though twhen i click onto my buried track i end up with deep voids right down to original kuju level if you know what i mean, even when i ajust the cut and embankement grades, when you say set gradient then lay from existing track i find the track goes up hill not down as i want it and the other end starts with a deep cutting and a rise so is hard to get started, i will try again thogh and see what has happened.

I must say this forum is agreat help for beginners like me i am useless on a pc, and have found that all the file manipulation etc has learnt me a lot too. But i must admit that the tutorials have not helped me much apart from the dem one, as most of the ways i have made things work certainly arnt on the demo's, but i seem to get there in the end

just seen a new post use a minus figure in the gradient box dohhhhhhh, why didnt i think of that sometimes the anwers are the simplist

[nobkins]

The cutting and embankment calues control the angle of the cutting / embankment. You tend to get a very deep cut / angle if you don't have a very big brush size or your track is too deep!

Try increasing the brush size. If you have a brush size of 100 then this should be ample enough space for RW to give you a cutting or embankment at the angle you specify.

I use something like:
Brush: 100
Cutting: 35 ish
Embankment: 35 ish
Track size (I think that is the right name): 9.5 ish

[antonyperks]

Yes thanks for that all sorted, one thing though my embankements seem all jagged not smooth at the bottoms, they tend to follow the grid line orintation is there a way to re-orintate the grids so they follow the cuttings/ embankements?, or can they be snmoothed another way?

[hertsbob]

I don't think you can unfortunately. Or if you can I'd be delighted to learn how from someone.

Using the 'smooth' tool can help, but I find I end up with either ground over the track or holes underneath. Or both!

Cheers

Bob

[moranb]

You will need to use the 'height' tool, set to a brush of 10. With this setting, you can select individual nodes from the grid and move them up or down as required to eliminate the worst of the zig-zagging. It can take some time to adjust them all , but it does work. The smooth tool is not really suitable for this kind of detail work.

BFM

[nobkins]

I use the smooth tool down the each edge (trying not go over the track. You end up with some "earth" over the track but if you back over with the snap to track tool. it sorts this out and will be smoother than the 1st pass.

[antonyperks]

Thanks all, I did a run this morning took a 37 up to the quarry with 5 eanos hoppers on the back i have some grond missing under the embankements and my level crossings are .................well lets say not level but i did hit the T key just before saving so the ground levels were put back , just got to lay the loops at each end add some sidings and textures, oh and work out where the traffic is coming from erupting out of the centre of a field!, oh and write a cople of scenarios, etc not much eh.